In just four hours I ate curry, fish and chips, stilton cheese, salt beef bagels, bread and butter pudding, salted caramel cheesecake and a bacon sandwich. With ketchup. Why? You might well ask. It was because I had decided to be a tourist in London for the day. And my day was all the better for it. There is a certain delight in being in a tourist in your home town. It’s such an unusual thing to do that it feels slightly illicit, that you have no right to be there, this is an experience for visitors, not locals. And how much are you going to discover, given that you know the area so well?
The answer is – a lot. I have lived and worked in London for most of my adult life and yet I found the four-hour Eating Europe food tour of London truly fascinating. Some of the places we visited I was familiar with, others not at all, and yet even the familiar places were given a new light as I discovered there is a big difference between walking through an area and actually getting to know it by hearing its history and eating its food.
That was another unexpected element about the tour: I thought it would just be about the food but our fabulously enthusiastic and well-informed guide Flic told us all about the history of each area so I came away much fuller in both food and local knowledge.
We started off near Liverpool Street station in Spitalfields market which began began trading back in the 13th century. The market operated for more than 700 years until the 1990s when it moved to larger premises in Leyton, east London and the building itself became a rather run-down collection of shops and sporting facilities (I used to play five-a-side football here!) Reopening in 2005 after a regeneration programme, Spitalfields is now a rather smart shopping and food area which still retains a hint of its original function.
Passing by the Ten Bells pub where Flic informed us ‘Jack the Ripper drank here and scouted for his future victims’ we headed up Commercial Street to notable chef Fergus Henderson’s restaurant St John Bread and Wine. Continue reading Curry, bagels, fish and chips and bacon butties on a food tour of London’s East End