Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal review: food for thought

Turning up to lunch at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal with a copy of the menu from The Fat Duck at Bray (also by Heston Blumenthal, where my dining companion Simon had eaten just the week before) is some serious fanboy behaviour. It is also guaranteed to provoke comparison between the two, which could have been an unfair contest.

Now I haven’t yet been to The Fat Duck, but judging by Simon’s description and Exhibit A – said menu – it sounded like a magical journey into another world, where Alice in Wonderland meets your very own childhood memories and you lose touch with reality for the day. Whereas Dinner, after all, is just a restaurant.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal review
Not your average menu…

Thankfully, Heston is more than capable of standing up to the competition, even when it is himself. Thus while Dinner, Heston’s restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental hotel in London’s Knightsbridge, could have looked terribly prosaic for having a menu with – yawn – starters, mains and desserts listed on it (while The Fat Duck had a map, and a reverse timeline, and illustrations, and needed a magnifying glass in parts) the dishes listed on it are so far from ordinary that you can forget about the other place down the M4 altogether.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal
Frumenty or Salamagundy anyone?

For a start, I’d never seen menu items listed with their date of origin on, and I’ve certainly never knowingly eaten something from 1660 or 1390 (or thereabouts). Then there were the dishes themselves: what, I wondered, was Salamagundy? Or Frumenty?  Had I read any reviews of Dinner before my own lunch there, then I would have known all about Meat Fruit, the restaurant’s signature dish, but I hadn’t and so I didn’t.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal review
As well as the full menu there is also a three-course set menu option

We dived in regardless. Thankfully the restaurant itself – light and airy with massive windows onto Hyde Park – was a cheerful and relaxed place rather than the more formal establishment I’d been expecting (people were wearing jeans and t-shirts) so you felt you could ask daft questions of a passing waiter without feeling intimidated.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal review
The entrance to Dinner is at the back of the Mandarin Oriental hotel and the main dining room looks onto Hyde Park

Passing up the chance of eating Savory Porridge or Rice & Flesh (saffron, calf tail and red wine), we went for the Salamagundy. This was described as chicken oysters, salsify, marrowbone and horseradish cream and didn’t do much for me, tastewise. However the Meat Fruit was exactly what I’d hoped for – by which I mean I had no idea what it was, but with Heston you hope to be surprised and amazed and we were, as a large orange mandarin fruit arrived and turned out to be made of perfectly smooth, rich chicken liver parfait.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal review
It looks just like an ordinary mandarin…
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal review
…but it’s made of meat. Hence, Meat Fruit. Clever eh?

Thus encouraged, we charged on to the mains: powdered duck breast, with smoked confit fennel, smoked beetroot and ‘umbles (from c1670, the menu informed us – our waitress told us they’re like sweetbreads) and the roast halibut, with mussel and seaweed ketchup.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal review
Powdered duck breast, with smoked confit fennel, smoked beetroot and ‘umbles

The powdered duck was delicious and the roast halibut… well, it was also extremely good as you’d expect, but memorable? Possibly not. It felt a rather boring choice but it felt even more boring to go for the other options, such as Hereford Ribeye or Fillet of Aberdeen Angus: while I’m sure they were done to perfection, if you’re dining at a Heston restaurant you don’t really want something you can get elsewhere. I wanted a Meat Fruit equivalent for every course, and steak or Braised Celery just wasn’t going to cut it.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal review
Roast halibut, with mussel and seaweed ketchup

If you wanted memorable, then thankfully the desserts were up to the challenge. Chocolate bar with passion fruit jam and sambocade goats milk cheesecake from the 14th century all sounded great fun, but it had to be the Tipsy Cake, with its spit roast pineapple (seen rotating in the open kitchen). It was as tasty and bonkers as you could wish for.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal review
The fun and delicious tipsy cake (with spit roast pineapple)

Then, in a classic piece of Heston theatre which is like a band playing its best-selling single for the umpteenth time but no less fun for that, the ice-cream trolley arrived, and before you could say ‘liquid nitrogen’ there were billows of dry ice smoke, some vigorous cranking and hey presto – some instant ice-cream, served with your choice of topping (we went for strawberries and popping candy).

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal review
Time for ice-cream! Did someone order liquid nitrogen?
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal review
Freshly frozen – and topped with strawberries and popping candy

No-one would claim that Heston was a budget choice, but even so, with just two glasses of wine each our lunch came to an hefty £235 with service (there is a three-course set lunch menu for £40 each which sounds better value but has fewer options ).

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal
The three-course set lunch menu at £40 a head is less of a burden to your wallet

To take our minds off that, we had a little look around the restaurant instead, taking in the chefs table and its impressive frieze depicting the historical backdrop to the dishes – both Elizabeth I and Heston made an appearance – and then it was back to the office. Next stop, Bray.

montage

heston in the montage

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park
66 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7LA
+44(0)20 7201 3833
Open 12pm-2.30pm and 6.30pm – 10.30pm 

Get my free email with offers and updates!

Sign up to receive my fortnightly email full of news, offers and brand new reviews!

I agree to have my personal information transfered to MailChimp ( more information )

I will never give away, trade or sell your email address. You can unsubscribe at any time.

Sarah Bridge

Every review is personally researched and written by me, Sarah Bridge, who, when I'm not writing about leisure for a national newspaper, spends my time seeking out the best leisure experiences, from city centre boutique hotels to country house estates, Michelin-starred dining to the newest openings. Some of the links on my reviews are affiliate marketing links, which means if you click through I get a small commission if you end up buying on these sites. This in no way affects the independence of my reviews, but helps with website running costs and I just wanted to let you know so as to be fully transparent.
Sarah Bridge
Facebook
Facebook
Pinterest
Pinterest
LINKEDIN
Instagram

2 thoughts on “Dinner by Heston Blumenthal review: food for thought”

    1. I’m not sure there is one anymore – I booked for a few weeks in advance but that’s because that’s when I wanted to go! It’s a great-looking menu but seriously pricey…

Leave a Reply

Your e-mail address will not be published. Required fields are marked *